Dining

 Richard Foss

Seven tasty meats at Yamaya

Seven tasty meats at Yamaya

The Japanese’s relatively young tradition of eating beef is gloriously celebrated at Yamaya

by Richard Foss You wouldn’t know it from the number of Japanese steakhouses that have been popping up around town, but the Japanese are relatively new at eating beef. The overwhelmingly Buddhist country banned most cattle consumption in the year 675 and only legalized it in 1868. When it was announced in 1872 that the […]

 Richard Foss

Rui Ji – Mystery from China’s Southwest

Rui Ji – Mystery from China’s Southwest

For anyone who isn’t familiar with Sichuan cuisine, a meal at Rui Ji may be a challenge, but that’s exactly the reason to go there

Rui Ji owner Ruixiang Wang. Photos by Brad Jacobson (CivicCouch.com) by Richard Foss If you go to almost any Chinese restaurant, there will probably be an item with the icon of a chili pepper next to them, and a name like “Sichuan pork.” What you actually get if you order it may vary from place […]

 Richard Foss

Sea Change for the better

Sea Change for the better

Chez Melange stays ahead of the curve with a new name and a new focus

by Richard Foss There was a time when restaurants fit into categories, serving only the French, German, Mexican, Italian, American coffee shop, or whatever else was their specialty. California cuisine blew up that expectation, creating eclectic cuisine as its own category. Suddenly you had to scan the menu carefully and weigh unanticipated flavor combinations in […]

 Richard Foss

Mar’sel is more than a pretty view

Mar’sel is more than a pretty view

Mar'sel chef Andrew Vaughan's explorations continue a reliance on hyper-local ingredients

by Richard Foss This week, I went to a restaurant with a spectacular view of the ocean, but sat where I couldn’t see it. Instead, on our most recent trip to Mar’Sel my wife and I dined at the bar. That’s not what we planned to do, though in retrospect it’s hard to apply any […]

 Richard Foss

Sea of change at Chez Melange

Sea of change at Chez Melange

by Richard Foss During a meeting between two restaurateurs who had been business partners for 35 years, Robert Bell uttered a fateful sentence. “I said to Michael, “The good news is that everyone knows Chez Melange. The bad news is that everyone knows Chez Melange.” Michael Franks agreed with his partner’s assessment. They needed to […]

 Richard Foss

J. Trani’s Ristorante, A unity of Themes

J. Trani’s Ristorante, A unity of Themes

Chef Dustin Trani’s family has operated local restaurant for nearly a century. Still, even J Trani’s traditional fare has a modern flair

by Richard Foss One of the modern memes in restaurant design is the deliberately inappropriate space. Trendy Italian in a warehouse, Korean food in a British pub, Southern traditional in an austere space reminiscent of a hospital, they’re all a thing in greater LA. It’s ironic humor expressed in architecture, and when done well it […]

 Richard Foss

Better than fair family fare – Truxton’s American Bistro

Better than fair family fare – Truxton’s American Bistro

Truxton’s American Bistro raises the bar for family fare on the Peninsula

by Richard Foss The primary characteristics of a French bistro are casual, small, and cheap. The word is Russian for “quickly.” After Napoleon surrendered and Paris was occupied, impatient Cossack soldiers reportedly shouted “Bistro!” at restaurant workers so often that small, cheap places that could make a fast meal put out signs with that word. […]

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One Stop Shop – Lunada Bay Market

One Stop Shop – Lunada Bay Market

Napa Valley comes to the hill

by Richard Foss Before meeting with the landlord, Jocelyn Lopez had spent considerable time planning a business proposal for an empty space in Lunada Bay. Now she is indeed opening a business, but not what she planned. “I originally wanted to put in a juice and smoothie bar in that building. I worked so hard […]

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Peninsula Dining – When America Met China

Peninsula Dining – When America Met China

Fu Yuan Low is a throwback to when Chinese cuisine was first popularized stateside

  by Richard Foss Americans have been eating Chinese food of various levels of authenticity for over a 150 years. A banquet attended by a San Francisco food critic in 1865 included reindeer sinews, bird’s nest soup, and braised dried oysters. That intrepid writer was more adventurous than most of his countrymen then or now, […]

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Peninsula food – Tantawan high on Thai

Peninsula food – Tantawan high on Thai

Peninsula food Tantawan Thai’s servings and server lift spirits by Richard Foss I don’t always comment about the service, even though that has a lot to do with the quality of the dining experience. Once in awhile, though, it makes or breaks a meal, and that just happened at Tantawan Thai, a restaurant located in […]

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